Christie’s Jewelry Sale, Hubert de Givenchy Auction Topes Estimates – WWD

Worth slamming: Until July 7, an eclectic set of jewelry ranging from the 19th century to the 1980s will be offered online for auction by Christie’s.

The 290 lots, curated by the jewelry department of the auction house’s French branch, include creations from the cornerstones of Place Vendôme Boucheron, Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels as well as pieces from sought-after signatures JAR, Suzanne Belperron and René Boivin.

Probably among the stars of the sale are the nine pieces that once belonged to June Newton, the late photographer known professionally as Alice Springs and who was married to Helmut Newton.

A gold Boivin bangle studded with sapphires and pearls is estimated between 20,000 and 40,000 euros, with a similar starting price of 30,000 euros for another bracelet from Belperron studded with geometric patterns featuring precious stones.

Another major attraction is the personal collection of third-generation jeweler Jean Fouquet. In addition to pieces by his grandfather Alphonse and his father Georges, the clean lines of the Art Deco pieces should attract attention – and auctions.

The late jeweler’s own creations have fetched high prices recently, with a necklace donated by Christie’s setting the world record for his work at 980,000 euros last July.

Other highlights include a transformable Zip necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, estimated between 200,000 and 300,000 euros; a panther brooch in colored diamonds designed by Boivin; a Bulgari Tubogas necklace set with green tourmalines and peridots, and creations by American jewelers David Webb and Seaman Schepps.

The “Jewelry Talent of Today” section, now in its third edition, will feature the works of contemporary jewelers Gaelle Khouri, Mashandy, Salima Thakker, Jose Marin and Aida Bergsen.

The jewelry will be on display at Christie’s Paris outpost at 9 avenue de Matignon in the 8th arrondissement until the sale closes on July 7. —LILY TEMPLETON

BIG GIVENCHY SALE: Live sales from the estate of Hubert de Givenchy fetched over 114 million euros, more than double the collection’s low pre-sale estimate, making it the second most valuable collection ever sold to French auctions, said Christie’s in Paris.

The result cemented the auction house’s reputation as a powerhouse for sales of sole proprietor collections, having handled eight of the 10 most important collections in history, including the historic sale of the collection of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in 2009.

Composed mainly of works of art, sculptures and 18th century furniture, Givenchy’s collection reflected the discerning eye of the designer known as the ambassador of French taste, nicknamed in interior design circles “the French taste. Collecting was a way of life for the great designer with aristocratic roots and his associate Philippe Venet.

Christie’s touted it as a “watershed moment” for the 18th-century furniture market, noting that of the 10 best-selling works, half were 18th-century furniture and decorative arts and the other half were works by ‘modern Art. “Such high and exceptional prices for 18th century furniture have not been achieved since the 1990s,” the house said in a statement.

The four live auctions took place from June 14 to 17 at the Théâtre Marigny and at the Christie’s auction house in Paris. Two online sales of smaller items, such as tableware, will take place on June 22 and June 23, respectively. A total of 1,229 lots went under the hammer.

Designer Hubert de Givenchy.
Reginald Gray/Fairchild Archive

Interest was stoked by a traveling preview that began in Palm Beach and traveled three continents, culminating in a sprawling preview at Christie’s headquarters on Avenue Matignon in Paris, which recreated several bedrooms of residences of Givenchy in Paris and in the Loire Valley. A total of 10,000 visitors visited the World Expos.

“It is not surprising that the impeccable provenance and superior quality of the treasures of the Hubert de Givenchy collection have attracted such interest from buyers around the world,” said Cécile Verdier, President of Christie’s France.

With a cumulative total of 114.4 million euros, or 119.7 million dollars, the auction set 19 new world records. Five lots were sold for more than 5 million euros, including the painting “Passage of the migratory bird” by Joan Miró, which hung in the designer’s bedroom and had never been presented at auction before.

“Woman Walking”, a cast of a statue by Alberto Giacometti, went for 27.2 million euros, setting the record for the most expensive work sold at auction in France since the beginning of the year.

Charles Cator, vice-president of Christie’s International, worked with de Givenchy on the first sale of objects from his collection at Christie’s in 1993, and several subsequent projects until the designer’s death in 2018.

“It was particularly exciting to see the extraordinary results – at all price levels – obtained for these marvelous pieces of furniture that Hubert de Givenchy appreciated so much,” he said. — JOELLE DIDERICH

THE NEW SCHOLL CAPSULE: DJ Honey Dijon sweetens Scholl by creating a new capsule collection for the iconic wooden-soled slides.

The first drop of the two-part collaboration under her fashion brand Honey F – king Dijon, the capsule features a sleeker and sexier take on the clog. It’s designed to go “from the beach to the club,” Dijon told WWD. The collection is an all-black colourway with oversized silver hardware and, for the heeled version, a more curvaceous silhouette.

“The shoe is very personal, actually, and when I saw that they were reintroducing the brand, it immediately reminded me of my mother and my childhood. I had this emotional connection to it,” Dijon told WWD The Chicago native has an affinity for her hometown brand, and this drop was inspired by the industrial aesthetic of her adopted city of Berlin.

The brand has opened the archives of its Milan headquarters to the delight of Dijon, which calls itself the “queen of research”. There was a treasure trove of information and images that speak to everything from disco and club culture, to sustainability, to today’s health and wellness trends, not to mention the political similarities of the ‘era. “There are a lot of correlations happening now that reflect what happened in the 70s, so it’s really very timely.”

“There’s all this conversation now in the culture about gender non-conforming and non-binary people and clothes are for everyone. And I thought that was a really good way for me to reintroduce this iconic shoe to a new generation of kids. It’s such an iconic American shoe that has really stood the test of time, and I thought it would be great to elevate it into the fashion conversation. There’s so much cross-pollination between what’s going on now.

Although she’s reluctant to utter the word ‘comfort’ for all the old-fashioned connotations of Scholl’s orthopedic background, she added: ‘We all have very active lifestyles now and the shoe fits right into that. And as someone who stands up for hours and hours and hours, having a really nice, fashionable shoe that’s also good for me is like perfection.

It’s also a style lifesaver for the busy DJ who may be in four cities in a week for gigs. “I can go from the beach to the airport to the club, because often I don’t even have time to change. And you don’t even have to take it off when you go through the TSA” , jokes Dijon.

“The market is so crowded that it must have something to add to people’s lives,” she added.

Honey F-king Dijon x Scholl

Honey F–king Dijon x Scholl
Courtesy Scholl

It’s part of a wider revamp of the iconic shoe that had its heyday in the 70s and has been a favorite with celebrities from Audrey Hepburn to Sarah Jessica Parker. “[The goal is] to grow the brand and truly manifest the leadership position in the segment. Clearly playing the fashion game is a big part and a big pillar of that strategy, and that also means elevating and reviving the collections,” Tobias Klaiber, managing director of Scholl Shoes, told WWD.

The growth plan strategy is twofold with more celebrity and brand collaborations to come. Is there something like the Birkenstock and Dior deal in the works? “We clearly don’t want to replicate or do the exact same thing,” he said, noting that they work with “more democratic” brands. A collaboration with Danish cult favorite Ganni launched earlier this year.

“We really want to select partners who can be bold and brave with us, where we can be more creative and really embrace the spirit of the brand, challenge the status quo and reinvent ourselves as well.”

Without giving specific figures, Klaiber said business had doubled in the past year thanks to fashion outlets such as Le Bon Marché in Paris and KaDeWe in Berlin and they were expanding in Asia, particularly in China, Japan and Korea.

“In fashion, there are a lot of things already planned to come and there are also other initiatives that we are going to carry out,” he said. There are three more collabs in the works for 2023, but Klaiber insists it’s not a numbers game. “We are looking for long-term partners. We have a more strategic vision of brand development, but also [collaborations] that really help us to be bolder, braver, to experiment and to be creative. »

The capsule will be released in October and will be available on Dover Street Market, along with additional gates. It comes in an inclusive size range of 35 to 46. — ​​RHONDA RICHFORD

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